TUNGNATH TO BADRINATH and back to RISHIKESH

L A N D O F G O D S

Traveled through the Central Himalayas in Uttar Pradesh (now, Uttaranchal) across the districts of Dehradun, Uttarkashi, Tehre-Garwal, Chamoli and Pauri.

The Routes I reavelled during this journey are

• GANGOTRI-GAUMUKH
• KEDARNATH – GANGHI SAROWAR
• DOGAL BHITA-CHOPTA-TUNGNATH
• BADRINATH – MANA – VYASA GUMPA – BHIMPOOL
• RISHIKESH

After TUNGNATH our next main spot was BADRINATH. So, taking breakfast in Mangal Sing’s Hotel , we started bus journey for GOPESWAR . On the way, we found the Entrance to SATI PIT ANNUSWAH’s Temple. When our bus reached GOPESWAR, we were surprised by seeing this small beautiful district Head Quarter of Chamoli – though we had a mind to stay in this beautiful place, but to reach our destination BADRINATH before closing of the Temple (Generally Temple closes in the last week of October), changed a bus here for CHAMOLI. This route to Chamoli is connected to main route from Rishikesh to Badrinath. We again changed here at Chamoli for 134 kms long journey to our destination BADRINATH. This was excellent bus journey along the river “ALKNANDA’ flowing sometime in the right and sometime in the left side. By reaching BADRINATH at 17 hrs., found the holy town as a town of fantasy, a huge number of hotels and dharmasalas were scattering here and there but most were under lock and key. The strong cool wind made us more discomfort in finding a logging. After a while we somehow managed Bhagirathi Lodge and spent the night there.

BADRINATH Temple is situated at the confluence of RISHI GANGA and ALAKNANDA at a height of 3110m above sea level. Once BADRINATH PURI was surrounded by wild BADRI or BERRIES and so it was named “BADRIVAN’ and thus now modified the name as Badrinath. Badrinath is between the valleys of NARA and NARAIN range near the towering NEELKANTH peak. It is better to say, situated on the lap of Narain Parvat near TAPTA KUND. The idol of Lord Bishnu (Badrinath) is made of black stone (Shaligram) and seated in a PADMASAN POSTURE. Devotees can see the idol of Lord as BRAHMA, VISHNU, MAHESH, HANUMAN and KALI, what so ever form they think almighty - all pervading in one. There is no historical record available as its origin or to the age of the holy Temple. But one can find reference of Lord BADRINATH in Hindu’s mythological books VEDs. During the regime of ASHOKA the temple was worshiped as Budhist Temple, mythological SKAND PURAN, say that the idol of Lord BADRINATH was recovered by SHANKARACHARYA from WARD KUND and re-shrined in this Temple in 8^th century A.D.

On 27^th October , we got up early in the morning and lucky enough to had a beautiful clear day. Our first duty was Darshan of BADRI BISHAL, so I bought a bucket of warm water from TAPTA KUND by paying Rs. 4/- to a local man. Being refreshed with this warm water went out to the Temple. Just in front of the Temple there are hot water springs comes out from GARUR SHILA and fall into the tanks. A dip in NARAD KUND and TAPTA KUND considered very holy and everybody dips in the both Kunds before going to Darshan Bdrinath Bishal . Badrinath is a place of Dharas. The PANCH DHARA, PRAHLAD DHARA, KURMA DHARA, URVASI DHARA, BHRIGU DHARA and INDRA DHARA are most famous Dhara in Badrinath. We also had a darshan BADRI BISHAL NARAYAN and there after began trekking along the bank of ALAKNANDA – morning view of towering NEELKANTH peak along with NARAIN PARVAT was worthy bearing in mind. Here one could find a valley at the back side of the Temple - a gap open towards NEELKANTH peak which symbolizes all spirituality of the holy land of BADRINATH. Then after taking light food and tea we again began trekking on the opposite side of ALAKNANDA. On the lap of NARAPARVAT, there are two small lakes in which a large stone known as SESHA-NAG was formed naturally, is also thing to memorize. CHARANPADUKA is 2 km from here.

Our next spot was to the last far-off village of the North-India, MANA 3 kms from BADRINATH. We began to trek – motor road is available up to MANA from Badrinath for military camp. Foreigners are restricted to trespass the area. In MANA, Temple of MATA MURTI is situated in the opposite side of the village. In the village tea-stall we took a little rest, - talked to the local peoples, one local man named Manshing Molpha who was retired from Indian army talked very frankly with us. Most surprisingly found him speaking Bengali, which he learned in service life at TRIPURA. He offered us MANA MADE WINE but hesitated to take, lastly on his pushy request took a little for his honour. In the mean time, many local people gathered there, wanted to know about us. We all were pleased with their sacred mind and faithful attitudes. Simple mind and faith on hill is precious capital of the people - worthy remembering. This village is full of caves, so it may be called CAVE VILLAGE. VYAS GUPHA, GANESH GUPHA, BHIM GUPHA are visible here.

We again started trekking in a complete rocky mountain, which was surrounded by various form of large stones. No one was there in VYAS GUPHA, but opening the door we found VYAS DEVA i.e. a small statue. This is the place where He wrote our (Hindu) mythological four VEDS. Then we climbed up the roof of the GUPHA, from where partly snow-clad majestic view of NARA PARVAT is visible.

Then we came down to the route between two range of hills where SARASWATI and ALAKNANDA are met together, called KESAVAPRAYAG. VASUDHARA fall is 3 kms from here. One can see ALAKPURI GLACIER from VASUDHARA. The mountain of NARA and NARAIN meets at CHAKRATIRTH, which is 21 kms from BDRINATH. SAPTOPANTH Lake is 25 kms from BDRINATH situated at a height of 4402m above sea level. Trekking to SATOPANTH is dangerous because weather is generally unsettled and unexpected here. We saw many waterfalls in KEDARNATH route, so did not trek more. Moreover some local peoples advised us not to proceed further as we were late and might be in strong snowdrift wind in the evening. Seeing BHIMPOOL Bridge on the river SARASWATI , we returned from MANA. In the evening we took a little rest after whole day trekking. Then after a while, I went to the Temple with Madan, had a last Darshan of BADRI BISHAL NARAYAN. These new partners from Nabadwip were always very energetic, prepared ‘KHICHURI’ as dinner by their own stove and pressure cooker, truly a homely food on this extreme North-India on 3163m above sea level.

28^th October was the day of returning down to Rishikesh, The chanting of Vedic hymns and chiming of bells awoke us early in the morning. Though I had a mind to visit KALPESWAR via HELENG , but changed my mind and accompanied with them in the Rishikesh bus at 6 o’clock in the morning. This was long 298 kms long bus journey in a zig zug up and down course in Himalayas varying altitudes 3110m to 472m. There is gate system from Badrinath to Joshimath route. The first gate is at 6-30 hrs. and last at 16-30 hrs in the evening. The system is to avoid accidents and safely reaching destination before darkness, maintaining timing is very important here.

Our bus stopped at PIPALKOTI, where we took breakfast. We passed through many mythological places –

DEVDARSHNI,

HANUMAN CHATTI,

PANDUKESWAR it said that king Pandu lived here during the last few days of his life.,

GOVIND GHAT ( this is the place from where I trekked alone to HEMKUND and VALLEY OF FLOWERS., detail is available in my other post),

VISHNUPRAYAG a meeting place of ALAKNANDA and DHAULI GANGA,

JOSHIMATH the seat of Adiguru SHANKARACHARYA this is most town on Badrinath route,

KALPA BRIKSHA is 2400years old is visible here,

HELANG –Kalpeswar Mahadev, which is one of the Panch Kedar, is 9 km from here,

GARUR GANGA,

PIPAL KOTI,

CHAMOLI,

NAND PRAYAG- here Nandakini coming from glacier located near Nanda Devi meets with ALAKNANDA,

KARNAPRAYAG the name is associates with KARNA, a popular hero of Mahabharata. Pindar flowing from the glacier PINDARI. ALAKNANDA and PINDAR formed here a PRAYAG. Roads coming from RANI KHET and KAUSANI meet here,

RUDRAPRAYAG – This is the junction of roads to the shrine of Sri BADRINATH and SRI KEDARNASTH situated at the confluence of MANDAKINI flowing from Kedarnath (84 kms) and ALAKNANDA coming from Badrinath (159 kms). The ancient Temple of RUDRANATH JI and JAGDAMBA DEVI are visible,

SRINAGAR – In this ancient capital of Tehri-Garwa. We took our lunch hurriedly in this place,

DEOPRAYAG – This is the first important town on this Badrinath route from Rishikesh. This is the confluence of ALAKNANDA and BHAGIRATHI . Bhagirathi coming from GAUMUKH becomes HOLY GANGA at DEOPRAYAG. The crystal clear holy flows together in green-white color at this confluence, and then only HOLY GANGA is worthy seeing even from the bus running on the high hill. Moving in zig zug way at last we reached Rishikesh at about 19 hrs in the evening. We spent that night at KALI KAMLI WALI dharmasala (NEW Building) at Goal Market.

On 29^th October, we got up lately, as we had no program that day. I bide goodbye to my four travel companions Rabi, Madan, Balai and Ram, they went to Haridwar by train and I stayed Rishikesh to experience loneliness in the ancient spiritual town for the whole day and night.

Awaking early in the morning on 30^th October, boarded bus for Delhi, and reaching Delhi, spent the night in Old Delhi Rly. Station’s deluxe dormitory with one ‘my dear Gujrathi gentleman’.

This day of 31st October, was to returned home by Brahmaputra Mail. Whole the day I passed by roaming in New Delhi with the Gujrathi gentleman who had a work in Russian Embassy.

In the evening I suddenly found Mr. Madan Mohan Chakraborty (office colleague) with his family in the waiting room. He had confirmed his reservation earlier, so I traveled with them without facing any troubles and finally reached KAMAKHYA (GUWAHATI) in schedule time.

“OM NAMO NARAYANAYA”

“ OM NAMASSIVAYA “